Free Pattern: Sockettes!
If i'm being honest, I wrote this pattern two whole years ago. Oops!
Sockettes is a riff on the Super Simple Sock pattern - except shorter. Skipping the leg makes for great warm weather socks, and also much faster knitting. Use up your scraps and go crazy with stripes like I did, or stick to a single fun colour.
Yarn: Knitsch Sock 4ply (or other sock-appropriate 4ply yarn)
I used 28g per sock, and my feet are a size EU40. So you'll need 50g - 60g of yarn depending on the size of your feet.
Needles: 2.50mm 80cm circular or double pointed needles
Gauge: 30 sts x 44 rows = 10cm
Sizes: Small (medium, large, X-large)
CO - cast on
K – knit
p – purl
ssk – slip, slip, knit
k2tog – knit two stitches together
p2tog – purl two stitches together
sl – slip the stitch from the left hand needle to the right needle without knitting
CO 60 (64, 68, 72) stitches
Set up row: k2, p2, repeat until end
next row: k2, p2, repeat until end. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Split the number or stitches evenly across 2 needles (the magic loop using the circular needle) or 4 needles (if using double pointed needles).
Next round: k2, p2, repeat until end
repeat rib pattern until cuff measures 2.5cm
This section is worked flat over 30 (32, 34, 36) stiches. The other half of the stitches are held on the cable of your circular needle or on two dpns and are not knit at all until the heel section is completed. You will be turning your work as this part is knit flat rather than in the round.
Next row starting from marker:
*sl1, k1, repeat from * 14 (15, 16, 17) more times. 30 (32, 34, 36) stitches have been worked.
Next row: turn work, *sl1, p to end
Next row: sl1, k2, *sl1, k1, repeat from * to end
Next row: sl1, p to end
Repeat these four rows 6 (7, 8, 9) more times, or until heel flap is length required. End on a purl row.
The heel turn is the bit that gets most people unstuck. As long as you follow the instructions word for word, and don’t worry about the stitches you aren’t knitting, it’ll make sense in the end.
Row 1: (right side of work) sl1, k16 (18, 18, 20), ssk, k1, turn work
row 2: (wrong side of work) sl1, p5 (7, 5, 7), p2tog, p1, turn
row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn work
row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked. 18 (20, 20, 22) sts remain. Finish by knitting across these sts on the right side row.
In this section the stitches along the side of the heel flap are picked up and knit, the top of the foot is now knit, the stitches down the other side of the heel flap are picked up and knit, and the sole of the foot is also worked.
Next row: Pick up and knit 14 (15, 17, 19) stitches along the heel flap, knit 30 (32, 34, 36) across the top of the foot, pick up and knit 14 (15, 17, 19) stitches along the heel flap, k9 (10, 10, 11), place new beginning of round marker.
Row 1: 23 (25, 27, 30) sts, k2tog, k30 (32, 34, 36), ssk, k to end of round
Row 2: knit all sts
Repeat these two rows, knitting 1 less stitch before each k2tog on each repeat of row 1.
Continue until 60 (64, 68, 72) stitches remain.
Knit in the round until the foot section reaches where your toes start (what I fondly refer to as ‘toe cleavage’).
Making a space for your toes!
Row 1: k12 (13, 14, 15), k2tog, k1, place marker, k1, ssk, k24 (26, 28. 30) k2tog, k1, place marker, k1, ssk, k to end
Row 2: knit
Row 3: k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 four more times.
Repeat row 3 until 30 (32, 34, 36) stitches remain. The beginning of round marker should be in the centre of the sole stitches. Break yarn and seam live stitches together using kitchener stitch.
If you like, you can wash and block your socks by laying them flat to dry. I’m usually much too impatient for this and put them on immediately.